How to replace the fan in the power supply

Computer resource for SM

Happy New Year of all! In today’s small opus, I will describe to you, comrades, my first (if the memory does not change) the experience of replacing the fan in the computer power supply. I will try to be brief, but I don’t guarantee anything.

After the long.Awaited moving to a more quiet and pleasant place of residence, I began to notice something that before I simply had no opportunity to notice. Noise from the Aerocool Templarius Imperator 1150 power supply, I bought with my hands about 1 year ago. Having weighed all the pros and cons, it was decided to immediately understand the situation.

The culprit of the triumph acquired at a very favorable price, which I am still glad:

T.To. Inside the worthy PSU is not the most suitable Young Lin DFS132512H fan for my purposes, and it has never been served, I decided to find out how it can be replaced. The choice fell on Noctua NF-P14 FLX, in fact I did not have to choose especially, t.To. There was nothing more suitable in Yulmart, and the bonuses accumulated there had to be spent wisely.

Newly received Austrian fan in the company of Taiwanese power supply:

We begin the process of disassembling the power supply, first we unscrew 4 screws, with which the fan inside the BP is attached to the grill, and the lattice to the PSU:

Then we remove the lid, which also holds on 4 screws, but smaller caliber:

The previous owner of my Aerocool Templarius Imperator 1150 did not look inside the power supply (and did not clean it outside), but for now the warranty was acting, I also did not dare. The result is on the face. Dust, dirt and horror:

Everything is clear here, with such a layer of dust and a solid fan would work noisily, but cooled poorly, what to expect from the budget brainchild of Young Lin?

How to Replace 1U Flex Power Supply Fan to 40mm Noctua Fan || PC Mod

A few more photographs of disgrace, so that everyone remembers that the power supply needs to be maintained no less than any other parts of PC with active cooling:

The next photo shows a power supply in a more or less cleaned/dusty form. And without a fan:

We unpack the Noctua product, the set of delivery pleases, exactly like the appearance of the “turntable”:

NOCTUA devices have always been expensive, and with the current exchange rate of the ruble to the main foreign currency, for them have become exorbitant at all. The accumulated bonuses of Yulmart helped, thanks to them, I acquired a decision at the old price, about 1000.

I decided to cut off part of the braid, so that the connector has wires, in case I have to return everything as it was (you never know. The fan is not suitable in the PSU, and I will decide to put it somewhere else):

After that, I cut off the connector with simple scissors, I have no more suitable tool so far, everything is due to the same move. So, we will connect these wires:

As you can see, the standard power supply was connected through three wires, although there are modifications of the DFS132512H fan with two and four wires, I see I got the average option.

Then I neatly exposed the wires, something like this was taught by young radio monitors ~ 20 years ago (probably now everything is about the same):

I decided to connect the wires as follows (thanks to Blackvolfram and the guys with overclockiers.Ru for good advice):

Those black and red wires that were paired in the standard fan of the power supply, I connected to the black and red wires of the Noctua fan, but the third standard red wire (not paired with the main ones). To yellow on the fan.

It looks dummy, but whether this design works, because it is likely that the power supply does not supply sufficient voltage when starting to promote the fan blades:

However, lucky! Although the blades rotate surprisingly slowly, apparently in the load it will change.

It’s time to isolate the wires and collect everything back already with a new fan:

I carried out isolation with the help of a double layer of island, after the application of which I again had to test the fan for performance, fortunately, everything started successfully.

Next, I decided to put the fan on the “rubber nails”, completely forgetting that the attachment is 140mm openings in the kit, so the idea failed (120mm and 140mm holes for obvious reasons did not coincide, and the very “nails” were not pulled out to the desired distance):

As a temporary solution, as a fastener, I used simple wires in the winding, which there were only two on the farm:

Do NOT replace a PSU Fan before you watch this video! By:NSC

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After all these difficulties, the reason for which only my inattention was (it was not necessary to guess to check the entire set of delivery of the fan for fasteners/adapters), the power supply was collected:

Here is a video showing the work of a new fan in the power supply:

NOCTUA NF-P14 FLX fan inside the Aerocool Templarius Imperator 1150 power supply is working properly, there is no noise from it, at least I did not hear it (apparently, the reason increasing the noise from the processor cooler and the graphics card cooling system). Usually, an air flow goes from the BP during work. Hot or warm, in my case it does not go at all or extremely little noticeable, it is somewhat strange and unusual.

In the future, I plan to improve the housing cooling system, yet one pair of 140mm fans is somewhat not enough to ensure optimal air circulation inside my FRACTAL Design Define R5 case, so the video card is clearly more than it was in Define R3 with four installed “turntables” (let him and size 120mm). That’s all, I hope that all the components of the computer after the above operation will live for a long time and will delight the user with stability and silence of work.

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Comrades. I wish everyone well to celebrate the New Year and even better to spend it. For some reason, 2015 turned out to be very difficult for many people, including for me and my family, so I would very much like 2016 to be easier in every way.

Everyone good health, good mood, in general. Happy NG, dear readers!

From the processor

Cooler (radiator and fan) is removed very easily. Unscrew four self.Tapping screws and disconnect the cooler from the motherboard. The cooler may not be on self.Tapping screws, but on latches. On the motherboard next to the connector for connecting the processor cooler, the CPU_FAN marking is usually applied. After removing the cooler, clean the radiator from dust.

On the motherboard, in addition to the connector for connecting the processor fan, as a rule, several more connectors were installed. One connector is designed to connect a fan installed in the system of system sides. There is usually an inscription sys_fan next to him. Another or two is usually free and you can, if necessary, connect another or two additional fans.

From the power supply

The power supply unit to the system unit can be mounted 4 or 3 screws. I have 3 of them (3.4.5 in the first picture). Unscrew them. Disconnect the wires coming from BP to devices inside the system unit. CAREFULLY! Some on latches! Therefore, inspect before tearing off the wire. And be sure to remember what’s what.

Having removed the power supply from the system unit, unscrew 4 small screws. One of them will surely be sealed, so it will need to be opened first by removing the sticker from it. Next, carefully disconnect the BP body into two parts.

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I have two fans in my BP. To remove them, you need to unscrew 4 screws outside the fan. Next, the wires of the fan can be cut or soldered from the board. If the fan is enough to lubricate, then you can not cut off the wire, and not solder it, but it will be a little harder.

From the case

It’s easy to remove the fan from the case, just unscrew 4 self.Tapping screws from the fan and disconnect from the connector.

Automatic calculation of power

To calculate power power, you can use the calculator in the browser: https: // www.Extreme.Outervision.COM/psucalculatorlite.JSP. Although he is in English, you can figure out. There are a lot of such services on the Internet.

In general, here you can choose almost everything you need, including the specific type of CPU, the format of the motherboard (Micro-ATX or ATX), the number of memory planks, hard drives, fans To calculate, you need to press on the rectangular button “Calculate”. Service issuing: both recommended and the minimum possible power value (in watts) for your system.

However, from experience, we can assume: an office computer (with a two-core CPU), can be content with a power supply for 300W. For home (game, with a discrete video card). Suitable BP 450. 500W, but for powerful PC players with a “top” (top) card (or two, in Crossfire or SLI mode). Total Power (total power) starts from 600. 700W.

The central processor, even with the highest possible load, consumes 100-180W (exception-6-core AMD), the video card is discrete-from 90 to 340W, the motherboard itself-25-30W (memory bar-5-7W), hard drive 15- 20W. Keep in mind that the main load (processor and video card) falls on the fishing line for the “12V” trimmer. Well, it is advisable to add a power supply (10-20%).

How to replace the fan on a computer power supply

If, one fine day, unpleasant buzzing began to come from the system unit, and its temperature has become very high or signs of cooler’s life disappeared altogether, then there is a need for a change of fan. How to replace, so as not to complicate the malfunction for inexperience and not to expose your life in danger?

First turn off the computer from the network and disconnect all the cables. Carefully draw a cross with a cross with a handle on the back and side walls of the system unit to free it from static electricity. Remove the side panel of the system. Then disconnect the power connectors from other devices, and then carefully pull it out. Unscrew 4-5 screws mounting lids. Then wait for about 2 minutes so that the capacitors are discharged.

Disflating the lid from the power supply body. Now unscrew and pull the fan. Next, it is necessary to cut off the culer of the power wire (in the case when there are no connectors on the board) or simply disconnect them (when powerful from the connectors). Now you should decide on the method of connecting the fan to power supply. If there are suitable connectors on the power supply unit, then the new cooler can only connect.

In the absence of connectors on the power supply board, you can connect the wires from the fan to the PWR_FAN motherboard connector (then the ends of the wires should be isolated). If there is no suitable connector on the system board, then it should be cut off from the new fan of the power wire.

After that, make the insulation of the wires from the power supply, and then from the new fan. Then twist them: red to red and black to black. Next, wrap the bare parts of the wires with tape or island so that they do not touch. Almost ready, it remains only to collect all the components exactly the opposite and start the computer.

How to replace a cooler on a power supply

Overheating of a power supply unit usually leads to a breakdown of this device. Unfortunately, often a strong heating of BPs causes sharp surviving voltage surges. The consequence of such a problem is the spoilage of the system board, video card and other important elements.

If you notice problems in the power of the power supply, immediately turn off the computer. Disconnect the network filter or UPS. Make a power cable from the body. Disconnect all the wires that interfere with the analysis of the computer.

Using a screwdriver with a cross tip, remove several screws that attach the left wall of the system unit. Remove the indicated cover. Now unscrew the screws with which the power supply is fixed. Their hats should be located on the back of the case.

Gently remove the power supply. If cables interfere with this process, remove them from the connectors. Unscrew a few more screws and remove the power cover cover. Remove the fan, after turning off the cable going to the block board.

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Clean the dust fan. Lubricate the axis of rotation of the blades. Sometimes this process allows you to return the working condition to the device. Buy a similar cooler if you could not “reanimate” old equipment.

Pay special attention to the power of the new fan. Make sure that the fastening holes are located in the right places. Do not forget to clarify the compatibility of the voltage cable connector to the cooler with a power supply nest.

Install a new fan in the power supply. Remember that this cooler should blow out air, and not supply it from the external environment. Close the lid of the power supply. Connect the device to the AC network.

Turn on the computer and make sure that the fan works stably. Turn off PC. Disconnect the network cable. Fasten the lid of the power supply and install the equipment.

Check if the block is reliably fixed inside the computer body. Turn on the computer. After about an hour, check the temperature of the power supply and the fan operation.

How to change the fan on the power supply

The fan in the power supply is used to blow radiators of power transistors and stabilizers. There are at least two reasons for which it may require: insufficient cooling of elements and increased noise during operation.

Disconnect the computer from the mains and remove the side panel by turning the tightening screws. Disconnect the connectors of the power supply from the motherboard, hard drives and other devices. Remove several screws on the rear panel of the system unit and remove the BP out. Wait until the capacitors are discharged. For two minutes.

Remove the lid from the power of the power supply by turning the tightening screws. Disconnect the fan from the BP case in the same way. If the fan is powered from the connector on the board, disconnect it. If there is no connector, cut the power wires that go to the fan.

Screw a new fan to the BP cover. Now you need to decide how to connect the fan to the power supply. If there is no appropriate connector on the PSU board, you can remove the wires from the fan, in a twist with other wires, and connect them to the PWR_FAN connector on the motherboard. In this case, it is necessary to isolate the ends of the wires that you cut.

If you have not found a suitable connector on the motherboard, cut the food wires of the new fan, clean them from insulation and tire them with flux. In the same way, prepare the wires that go from the BP board to the fan. Twist them together and seal at the place of twist, then wrap the bare areas with island.

Now it is necessary to test the operation of the power supply and the fan. On the connector, which is connected to the motherboard, drive the contacts of green and black conductors. Connect any load to the PSU and connect it to the mains. If the fan began to spin, then you did everything right.

Disconnect the power supply from power supply. Install it in the system of the system unit and fix it on the rear panel with pulling screws. If you decide to enroll the fan from the motherboard, connect it to the corresponding connector. Then connect all the devices of the system unit to the PSU, put the side panel in place and turn on the computer.

Replacing the fan in a computer BP

The procedure is as simple as connecting a case fan. First of all, you need to dismantle the PSU itself, turning off all the wires from the components of the computer and twisting 4 screws on the case.Next, unscrew 4 more screws that hold the upper lid of the BP. Do not be afraid: there may be a lot of dust inside. You can blow it with a household hair dryer or spray with compressed air.

And again you need to unscrew 4 screws with which the fan is attached to the back cover of the power supply. Install a new one and fix it, then collect the part in the reverse order.

On the board, where the cooler is connected, there is a 2-pin connector, next to which the polarity is launched. Accordingly connect the wires: black to plus, red to minus.

Logical question: is it possible to switch power with 3 pin to 2. Unfortunately, there is no such possibility: the slots simply do not match. You will have to use another fan with a “correct” connector, or cut a three.Pine and solder a double.Pine from an old fan instead.

The option is possible when there is no connector at all, and the wires from the cooler are tightly soldered to the board. As a rule, a marking with polarity is also applied there. Remember: black. Plus, red. Minus, without options.

It will also be useful for you publications “How to put a video card vertically” and “How to disable USB power when a computer is turned off”. Do not forget to share the articles of my blog on social networks. So you help its development. See you soon!

How to set the speed of rotation of the cooler?

The speed of rotation is regulated in two ways: hardware or software.

By the first, I mean in the insert of a special device between the cooler and the power source. It can be a simple resistor or speed controller.

A more advanced solution is Reobas (fan controller) installed in compartment 5.25, which was previously used for CD/DVD-ROM.

Hardware adjustment is possible when connecting 3-pin, 4-pin and Molex.

Software change in speed is available in BIOS, as well as in the operating system.

Go to the BIOS settings menu. In the Power section, select Hardware Monitor, Temperature or any similar, set the desired speed in the settings. In UEFI, you can configure adjustment using a curve. Do not forget to save the settings and restart the computer.

  • Q-FAN Controller
  • Speedfan
  • Corsair Link
  • MSI AFTERBurner
  • Notebook Fancontrol
  • Zotac Firestorm
  • Gigabyte Easytune
  • Thinkpad Fan Controller
  • Gigabyte I-Cool

Consider the adjustment on the example of the Speedfan program. The main menu displays information about the speed of the cooler and the temperature inside the case. Remove the checkmark from the “Auto.Fans” item and set the number of revolutions as a percentage of the maximum. Set the desired temperature there. Ideally, the temperature should not rise above 50 ° C. The same can be done in other similar applications.

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Repair of computer power supply units

In this article, I will tell you a little about the basics of repairing computer, pulsed power supply units of the ATX standard. This is one of my first articles, I wrote it about 5 years ago, so I ask you to strictly not judge.

Precautionary measures.Impulse BP repair is a rather dangerous activity, especially if the malfunction applies to the hot part of the BP. Therefore, we do everything thoughtfully and carefully, without haste, in compliance with safety precautions.

Power capacitors can hold a charge for a long time, so do not touch them with bare hands immediately after turning off the power. In no case should you touch the board or radiators with the power supply connected to the network.

In order to avoid the fireworks and save live elements, a 100 cotton bulb should be soldered instead of a fuse. If when the BP is included in the network, the lamp flashes and goes out, everything is fine, and if when turned on the lamp is lit and does not go out, somewhere a short circuit.

Check the power supply after the repair should be far from easily igniting materials.

Soldering iron, solder, flux. A soldering station with power adjustment or a pair of solderingrs of different capacities is recommended. A powerful soldering iron is needed to drop out transistors and diode assemblies that are on radiators, as well as transformers and chokes. A delayed small small thing is soldered by a smaller power.Sucking for solder and (or) braid. Serve to remove solder.Sprlardock cutters. Used to remove plastic clamps with which wires are pulled.Disadet on a 100.Bit gasoline or alcohol multimeter. Used to clean the board of soldiers of soldering.BP device.

A little about what we will see by opening the power supply.

Internal image of the ATX system power supply

A. Diode bridge, serves to convert alternating current into constant

B. Power capacitors, serve to smooth out the input voltage

Between b and c. A radiator on which power keys are located

C is a pulse transformer, serves to form the necessary voltage rates, as well as for galvanic interchange

Between C and D is a radiator on which the rectifier voltage diodes are placed

D is the throttle stabilization throttle (DGS), serves to smooth out interference at the output

E. Weekend, filtering, capacitors, serve to smooth out interference at the output

Sprinking connector 24 PIN and voltage measurement.

Knowledge of contacts on the ATX connector we will need to diagnose BP. Before proceeding with the repair, you should check the voltage of the on.Duty power supply, in the figure this contact is marked in blue 5V SB, usually it is a violet wire. If the duty officer is in order, then you should check the presence of the Power Good (5V) signal, in the figure this contact is marked with gray, PW.Ok. Power Good appears only after turning on the BP. To launch the PSU, close the green and black wire, as in the picture. If PG is present, then most likely the power supply has already started and the other stresses should be checked. Please note that the output voltages will differ depending on the load. So, if you see 13 volts on the yellow wire, do not worry, it is likely that under load they are stabilized to the regular 12 volts.

If you have a problem in the hot part and you need to measure stresses there, then all measurements must be carried out from the common ground, this is the minus of the diode bridge or power capacitors.

The first thing to do is open the power supply and perform a visual inspection.

If the PBP PUNLE CHOOSE ON. We check if the fan is spinning, if it stands, then this is most likely the reason for the failure of the BP. In this case, you should look at diode assemblies and DGS. They are most prone to failing due to overheating.

Next, we examine the PSU for burned elements that darkened from the temperature of textolite, swollen capacitors, charred insulation of DHS, ragged paths and wires.

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Before opening the power supply, you can try to turn on the PSU in order to surely decide on the diagnosis. Correctly diagnosed. Half of treatment.

PSU does not start, there is no voltage of the on.Duty power supply is not launched, but the voltage on duty is present. There is no PG signal.PSU goes into defense, PSU works, but stinks.Exhausted or underestimated output stressesFuse.

If you find that a fuse has burned down, do not rush to change it and turn on the BP. In 90% of cases, a fuse that flew out is not a cause of a malfunction, but its consequence. In this case, first of all, it is necessary to check the high.Voltage part of the BP, namely the diode bridge, power transistors and their strapping.

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The task of the varistor is the protection of the power supply from the pulse interference. In the event of a high.Voltage pulse, the resistance of the varistor sharply decreases to the fraction of OMA and shunts the load, protecting it and scattering the absorbed energy in the form of heat. When overstrain from the network, the varistor sharply reduces its resistance, and a smooth fuse is burned through it with an increased current through it. The remaining elements of the power supply remains whole.

The varistor fails due to voltage jumps caused by a thunderstorm. Varistors also fail, if by mistake you switched BP to the operating mode of 110V. The failed varistor is usually not difficult to determine. Usually it blackes up and split, and a soot appears on the elements surrounding it. Together with the varistor, the fuse is usually burned out. The replacement of the fuse can only be done after replacing the varistor and check the remaining elements of the primary circuit.

Diode bridgeThe diode bridge is a diode assembly or 4 diodes standing next to each other. You can check the diode bridge without falling out by calling each diode in the direct and reverse directions. In the direct direction of the voltage drop should be about 500 mv, and in the opposite to call like a gap.

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