Closing sections with overlock
Overlock is a special sewing machine, which is designed for neat professional processing of the cuts of the product. Its functions include pruning excess fabric and sticking threads, processing the edges of the material and stitching the details of the product.
It is not very difficult to learn to sew on this machine, but beginners have many problems when working with it. In the article we will answer questions such as wrapping complex cuts, which needles to choose for a machine.
How to crush knitted knitwear?
Knitted knitwear is quite difficult to process and in order to sew any product from it correctly, you need to know a number of subtleties. And the first thing you should pay attention to is the rules of cutting.
To begin with, the fabric is laid out on a flat surface with the front sides inward. It is important that the lower edges are directed in one direction. Do not stretch the canvas, since subsequently distortions may occur.
Cover knitwear from top to bottom. To determine the top and bottom of the canvas, you need to find a free thread on the sections and pull for it. If the fabric blossoms without much effort, then this is the top. When cutting large knitting material, it is best to use pins with large heads, as they will not be able to slip through the loops.
To avoid the difficulties when marking lines, you should carefully chop the parts of the pattern with the fabric and withstand the allowances on the seams (they should be located at the same distance from the sections).
All modern sewing machines have the function of the lines “Zig-Zag”. Many novice seamstresses use this line to tighten parts and process the bottom of knitted products. Such a seam turns out to be elastic and allows you to do without an overlock at first.
The seam “zig-zag” can easily be pulled out dense and thick fabrics, while when working with light and loose materials, problems may arise-a tight-fitted aesthetic line. To solve this problem, you can sew the allowances together by retreating from the edge and laying a zigzag. Then cut out the excess and beg the seam, laying the mark in the right direction.
How to sew a narrow hem on sheer fabric easily
How to process the allowances of seams without overlock?
All craftswomen, without exception, dream of acquiring an overlock, with the help of which you can quickly overwhelm the allowances of seams. However, there are more sophisticated and elegant methods of processing the internal sections of the product that are not inferior, and in some cases, superior to the estimated overpass seam. We offer you a hit parade of ways with which you can qualitatively process the allowances of seams without overlock and give your products the perfect look.
Cut with scissors zig-zag. The easiest way to prevent slices to shower is to process them with scissors with zigzag blades. Such pruning will avoid shedding cuts, however, we do not recommend this method on thin silk and transparent fabrics, as well as on fabrics with loose texture, for example, Twid Chanel.
Surfacing seam zigzag. This is a very affordable way for all seamstresses, since almost all sewing machines can perform a line of zig-zag. Gently adjust the allowances along the seams, set the required length and width of the stitch (2.5 mm for light fabrics and 3 mm for dense fabrics) and sweep the allowances along the edge.
Imitation of an overlapping seam. If your sewing machine has an imitation of an overlapping seam, trim the allowances and sweep them similarly to the seam zigzag. The difference is only in the originality of the line.
Processing of allowances in a rampant. This method of proximating proceeds is recommended to use those tailors who want to ensure that the wrong side of the product looks perfect.
This method of processing of allowances can be used when sewing products from cotton fabrics, as well as for sewing blouses and shirts in a sports style. Get parts on allowances at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge. Pass on the allowances. Turn the edge of each allowance up to a width of 0.75 mm, iron and sign it to the product. Set the allowances to the product along the edge. For more details, see the master class processing the seam in the rampant
Star of allowances with a slant. Beautiful inside. A business card of this method. It can be used for sewing clothes from light, medium and thick fabrics.
Before starting work, you need to measure the length of all allowances with an increase in 20 cm and buy a slanting bike with a slope on both sides of 15 mm wide. I scoop the box can be purchased at any accessories store or manufactured independently. When choosing the color of the box, keep in mind that it is considered a special chic for fashion designers to grind the allowances of contrasting in color with a box.
Hard in half so that the lower half is slightly wider than the upper (1-2 mm), iron or accept the box does not need. Wrap the allowance of the product inad. Stick the box exactly to the edge, slightly pulling on the box so that folds or wrinkles do not form.
Control the lower edge of the box so that it is a stitch in the seam. Wipe all the slices sequentially, amplifying. See the master class in more detail
Finished allowances, edged with a oblique fiber shown in rice. 5s. See also: how to make a device for making a slanting inhibitory with your own hands
Machine knitting. How to finish off the edge of a cardigan. Finishing ideas for knitwear
Double linen seam (French seam). In products of thin and transparent fabrics, allowances shine through the fabric, therefore, their processing should be given especially important, because all the shortcomings of the wrong side in this case will be visible, and this can not only worsen the appearance, but also completely spoil the product. That is why when sewing models from transparent fabrics, a double linen seam is often used. The processing of allowances by a double seam (the second name is the French seam) allows you to pack seams inside the seam. Thus, we get a clean wrong side and aesthetic appearance of the product from the outside.
The idea of such processing is that at first all the allowances are not stuck on the wrong side, as they usually do, but with the front. Then the allowances are cut to 0.4-0.5 cm, the seam is straightened and grinded from the wrong side. Strips of allowances that can be crashed remain sewn up inside the seam. For more details see: three simple ways to perform a French seam
The second masculine line on the wrong side of the product is shown in the rice. 6b.
French seam in finished form on the wrong side is shown in the rice. 6c.
Lite version of the French seam. This method of processing can be used for sewing products from thin cotton fabrics. Get parts for allowances for 1.5 cm width. Log each allowance in half inward to the seam and sour cream or just squeeze.
Simple seam processing methods
Involves melting the edge with fire. Suitable only for fabrics containing artificial fibers. Minus. Processed edges become tough, which can cause discomfort when wearing.
The edges are trimmed, then a special colorless composition is applied to them, which glorifies the canvases among themselves. Leave the product so that the seam is completely dried.
The use of festony scissors
For processing the seam, special scissors “zigzag” are used. The edge of the product is cut off, the fabric is straightened in different directions and thoroughly passes with an iron. The only condition is that a good result when processing in this way is obtained only on fabrics with tight weaving.
How to sew knitwear on a typewriter in one reception?
On many cars there are lines that combine a zigzag and a straight line. They should also be laid by retreating several millimeters from the cut, and then cut it manually. On the front side, the product will look very neat.
When working with such a line, it is better to loosen the tension of the upper thread. Feel free to put per unit or deuce to avoid knitwear deformation. In some cars there is also such a convenient thing as a pressure regulator on the fabric. Reduce it for specific material with which you work.
If despite all the tips, deformation, crushing, passing the stitches occur. You can not do without special stabilizers, over which a line is laid. You can use tracing paper or non.Woven, but then it will be difficult to get them out of the finished line. The ideal option is a water.Soluble stabilizer: it looks like a non.Woven, but dissolves under the influence of water.
Neat processing using a double needle
Slices of cut parts are processed with a large zigzag.Shaped line, both details together. Allowances should be no more than 1 cm. It is not desirable to make the seams in a rampant. The line becomes more vulnerable when tensioning. You can process the pseudo-drill seam if it is in the arsenal of your machine. Do not forget to change your foot. It should be with a limiter on the right edge. It is better to sew at low speed. So you will warn yourself against passes. With this paw can be sewn with a zigzag, then the edge of the cut will not get dried.So that the material does not crush when sewing, it must be slightly pulled behind the paw (it is even better to do this by the ends of the threads, then the line will be pulled, not the fabric itself), straightening the slices in front of the paw. If the wave nevertheless went, then it must then be ironed with an iron, and it will return to its place.
There are usually no problems with longitudinal cuts and when processing with a large zigzag with a restrictive paw processing, it is quite neat. With transverse sections is a little more complicated. On the sample you need to practice, which is more suitable for your type of knitwear: stretch it a little or push under the foot.
Fabric with dense weavers of threads can be treated with zigzag scissors. They are also called festony. The peculiarity of this tool is the presence of a toothed cutting edge.
Sigzag scissors are great for decoration of the following types of allowances:
The greatest difficulty of such cutting is the carriage of even cloves along the edge of the product. It is very easy to break the aesthetics of the edges here. Therefore, as a guideline, you can lay a line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
If you do not have special scbers, you can cut the gear edge using ordinary scissors. In this case, you will have to not only control the edges, but also the width, as well as the depth of the teeth.
Any of the above methods will allow you to protect the edges of the material from shedding. The choice of a particular option depends on the characteristics of the fabric, the features of the manufactured product and your personal preferences.
Cunning cunning of knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine
Many who tried to sew knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine noticed that often the machine refuses to make a beautiful and even line. Increase in a knitted line forms, the lower thread winds, and sometimes breaks off. Why this happens and how can this be fixed?
Firstly, for sewing tissues from knitwear, a special knitwear machine is used, it is called a flat.Haired machine. A high.Haat or a chain stitch machine. She has a seam from the reverse side looks like a “pigtail”. Look at any factory processing of a T.Shirt, and you will see for this.
Secondly, a knitwear overcotage is used to tighten the cuts of knitwear, which has a differential (stretching fabric) rail with simultaneous laying of a grinding chain stitch.
Well, in the third, special needles and threads are used for sewing knitwear. The last item is decisive for your sewing machine, so let’s figure out which needle need to sew knitwear, which threads need to be used to obtain a high.Quality line and consider other factors that affect the quality of the line.
Needles for sewing knitted fabrics
There are many reasons affecting the quality of the form. One of them is an incorrectly selected needle. Universal needles, which are most often used on sewing machines “bad” are suitable for sewing knitwear. It is not enough that the acute edge of the needle can damage the interweaving of a knitted fabric, so it can still be the cause of a too small loop near an needle ears. And the nose of the shuttle just passes by her, without capturing the upper thread. As a result, passes appear.
Replace the universal needle with a special needle with a rounded tip designed to sew such fabrics. The needle with such a tip does not puncture the fibers of knitwear, but passes between them and creates the best conditions for the formation of a loop. On the packaging with such needles is the inscription “Jersy”, and “Ball Point” means that the needles have a rounded tip.
However, you should know that the purchase of packaging of special knitwear needles does not always solve the problem, especially for old.Type sewing machines, such as Podolskaya or Seagull. There are a number of other factors that will be discussed just below.
This scheme depicts a knitted interweaving of tissues type Streich. Outwardly it resembles knitting or on a typewriter, and therefore is called a knitted canvas. “Springy” loops give fabrics many useful qualities, such as extensibility, weak crime, etc., but at the same time create certain difficulties when sewing them on ordinary household sewing machines.
Threads for knitted fabrics and their tension
None of a straight.Line car “. Knitwear for the sewing machine of the stitches is a test that not all cars withstand. True, modern household machines fully cope with this task, subject to some requirements. As you already understood, one of them is a high.Quality thread and its correct tension.
Sewing threads should be thin, elastic and durable. Basically, all types of modern threads available on the sale of the accessories department correspond to these parameters. But, nevertheless, you need to experimentally determine which type of thread is suitable for your machine better.
Naturally, you need to “forget” about the finishing thick threads, and even more so about the threads from the ancient reserves of the grandmother. Ideally, threads on conical large bobbins are suitable for sewing knitwear, but since they are quite expensive to use threads on small coils, such as “Ideal”.
Before sewing knitwear, you need to correctly configure the tension of the upper and lower thread.
Typically, the lower thread should not be adjusted, but when sewing knitwear, this often allows you to eliminate loop loop in the line. If when pulling the upper thread, the looping below does not stop, then try to slightly loosen the tension of the lower thread.
Please note that when you grind parts from knitted fabric, in one of the directions the line will be more weakened (usually transverse). Eliminate this “effect” with the help of tension will not be possible. Just knitwear under the influence of the paw and cloves of the rkaika stretches, and then takes the former shape and the stitches are weakened. By the way, the pressure of the paw must also be adjusted.
To eliminate this, they use stabilizers (gaskets) including strips from a newspaper in advance. A paper strip is laid under the fabric, and then, carefully pulled out of the seam. By the way, often such a “cunning” method can eliminate the gaps in the line of the Sewing Machine Podolskaya or the Seagull.
But, of course, this is too extravagant way to use which is undesirable. If you replaced the needles and picked up the threads, adjusted the tension, and the loop and gaps did not disappear, then you need to adjust the sewing machine. But only an experienced master can set up on sewing knitted fabric.
What is the difference between a knitted overlock
Almost all modern household overlocks are knitted overlocks. The main difference between a knitted overlock and usual is that a knitted overlock has a special rail device (cloves under a paw). During operation, the rail specially compresses (stretches) the knitted blade, and after tightening the canvas is stretched back (tightened). As a result, the seam turns out to be extensible and withstands more loading load.
For example, if you grow a knitted fabric on an ordinary machine, and at the same time stretch the tension of the threads to eliminate the slack in the line, you will get a very beautiful stitch, but weak. Stretch this area with your hands, and your beautiful seam will just burst. This is the main purpose of knitted machines. To perform an elastic and extensible seam.
Overlocks with a differential rail can sew not only knitwear. This function is easy to turn off using a special handle. And even, on the contrary, you can “force” the rail to collect the fabric. You need to know that the overlocks of old models, including Overlock of the 51 class, cannot qualitatively perform processing knitted fabrics. And do not be surprised if the connecting seams of knitwear, processed only by a three.Minute overlock, will eventually burst.